Dorrance Wine Cellar, Heritage Square in Cape Town
We love wine bars
and often wonder why they have not really caught on in the Cape. There are a
few, but there could be many more. When Lynne returned to Cape Town from London
in 1993 she wanted to open one. It will never work she was told, people don’t
go out after work, they go home first and then they go out. But it seems things
have changed and as Cape Town has become more work flexible, lots of people
want to meet friends after work. We decided to go and see how Dorrance were
succeeding with theirs
Christoph
Durand was a barrel trader from France who decided to settle in the Cape more
than two decades ago. He started to make his own (then garagiste) wines in
rented spaces, but now has his own Dorrance mini winery at the back of the wine bar in
the middle of central Cape Town
It
looks more like a restaurant and, indeed, it has tied up with Faisal Khakoo of
La Bohème bistro in Sea Point, who runs the kitchen - they serve a tapas menu.
We were surprised to see linen table cloths in a wine bar and in the drought. They
also serve other alcohols and we saw this gin tray with a selection of local
artisanal gins ... gin cocktail anyone?
We
read on the website that Dorrance wines are available for tasting till 6 pm and
thereafter the wine bar is open but, although we arrived before six, the
tastings were not taking place as it is harvest time. We did persuade the friendly
staff to allow us a small tasting of three of their available wines
The
Dorrance 2014 Chardonnay Cuvée Anaïs (R317 / R81 a glass on the menu) is rich
and complex on the nose; full of peaches, with a full palate with more rich
lushness and hints of peaches and apricots with citrus on the end. Wood lees
are its backbone. It’s a Bourgogne with lots and lots of sunshine! The Dorrance
Rouge (R150 / R50 a glass) is 100% Cinsault from the Swartland. It has the
characteristic slightly metallic, almost Pinot Noir nose with gentle berry
fruit. Clean rhubarb and cherries on the palate, a nice quaffing wine, and a
good expression of what Cinsault ban be like in South Africa. It washes the
palate and has long flavours. The 2014 Syrah Cuvée Ameena (R350 / R88 a glass)
has spice and white pepper with soft bruléed cherries on the nose. Crisp on the
palate with lively fruit acids, mulberries from the tree, soft chalky tannins,
warmth on the end and a steely old world finish
The
specials of the day
The
three page tapas menu. Lots of choice! We asked about the sizes and they are
all about 100g, so four would be good for two people, which is what we ordered.
With her meal Lynne ordered a glass of the Dorrance Rosé also made from 100%
Cinsault (R150 / R50). We assume that it is made with the free run juice of the
Rouge. It has the same nose, but is much lighter and softer on the palate. John
had a glass of the Viognier
Crispy
curry spiced fried calamari on parsley couscous with aioli (R72.50). Nice and
crisp tentacles and polpetti; we didn’t detect much curry spice, a good light
aioli and superb olive oil couscous with parsley. Topped with fresh tomato, pea
shoots and a slice of lemon. The chardonnay loved the couscous
Tuna
Crudo with teriyaki and a mango and Peppadew salsa (R87.50) Fresh from the sea
tuna, beautifully pink in a caramelised teriyaki, so, so good. There was
competition eating this dish. Topped with raw onion, chilli and coriander
salsa. Didn't notice any mango. The red chilli fought with the wine
Prawn
and Spring Onion gnocchi in garlic and pecorino sauce (R79.50). Round in shape,
rather doughy gnocchi, reminded us more of Chinese dim sum because of the
texture and the spring onions. Loved the pecorino cream sauce. Plenty of prawns
which were a bit chewy, topped with lemon, pepper and pea shoots, a good dish
Duck
Rillette with toast and pickles (R70.50) Quite a dry rillette, no duck fat residue,
good flavour. Served with good pickled cucumber and onion and toasted ciabatta
bread. The duck and the pickles need each other, they sing together
Now we have to go back and try some more of those enticing Tapas. And hopefully the new season Chenin when it is available, currently it is sold out
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018
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